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I learned that the South Indian seasoning podi – a rubble of searingly hot, crudely milled spices, which you stir into a little oil and use as a accompaniment for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” seasoning. That’s not a misnomer if you were using my grandmother’s home-dried chillies, but it would be kind to say that I’m far less bold with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an remarkably tasty marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Citrus-Mint Dressing

Gather six to eight barbecue sticks (if wooden, immerse them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 min
Cook 30 minutes
Serves 2

14 ounces starchy potatoes, sliced into 1.5-inch chunks
225g paneer, cut into two-centimeter cubes
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
One teaspoon cumin seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp chilli flakes
One and a half teaspoon flaky sea salt, with more for serving
Two garlic pieces, peeled and grated
1-inch piece fresh ginger, skinned and shredded
40ml neutral oil
One red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then sliced across

For the dressing
Lime zest and juice, freshly prepared
0.35 ounces fresh mint leaves, minced
Half a tsp flaky sea salt
One hundred grams natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for nine minutes, then drain them and let them dry from steam for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a container with heated water for a short while, then drain and pat dry.

Add the cumin, coriander, and fennel seeds into a mortar or spice grinder, add the seasonings, then pound or blitz to a rough rubble.

Tip into a medium-large bowl with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then gently stir in the cubed paneer, cooked potatoes and red onions to coat. Skewer the paneer, potatoes and onions on to the prepared skewers, then transfer to a baking sheet and set aside until needed – optionally, you can at this stage cover and refrigerate the skewers.

Stir all the dressing components in a mixing bowl. Heat the grill to its top temperature, then bake the sticks for five to seven minutes on each side, until the paneer is golden brown and the potatoes are beginning to blacken. (This may take a variable duration depending on the intensity of your oven, so keep an eye on them, especially when cooking the first side.)

Serve the skewers hot, topped with a little more salt and the sauce on the side for serving.